In Retrospect

Aside from the excitement of returning home, I took a minute to reflect on my seven weeks in Rome. Looking back it is hard to believe how much I have learned and grown from my experiences. Through the blogging assignments, I have in particular learned a lot from my themes, Roman churches and gelato and also my place, Trastevere. From just my research and my writing on these three topics you can gain a good understanding of what I got and took out of my time in Rome.

Gelato, quite obviously, was a big part of my diet and enjoyment in Italy. Simply by seeking out different gelateria’s it has taught me not only how great the Italian ice cream is, but also a lot about the city. I had to travel around to all different parts of the city to complete my gelato tour. Also, surprisingly, I learned that gelato is actually better for you than American ice cream, which of course gave me a good excuse to eat more!

Roman churches not only strengthened my Catholic faith but also taught me a lot about the Italian architecture, artwork and the aesthetics. I enjoyed comparing and contrasting the differences between the churches I visited. From smaller local churches in Santa Maria in Trastevere to St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City, each church has something unique that I took away from them. Although I didn’t get to see the four hundred plus churches in Rome, I feel as if I visited a good amount and I can’t wait until I am return to Rome to see more.

Trastevere, my place, was my home for seven weeks. I will always remember when the cab drove us up to our front door. We said to each other this couldn’t be right. In a back alley with no idea where we were was a bit horrifying. However, only days later we called it home. We grew to love it and really got to know it. There was so much to see, restaurants and shops lined every alleyway and down the main street Viale Di Trastevere. Trastevere, “across the Tiber” was its own little world, separated from the center city of Rome by the Tiber River. I enjoyed how it was filled with a lot of locals and was away from a lot of tourist traps. Overall, looking back on my two themes and my place, it really shows how much I was able to accomplish in such a short period of time. I hope you have enjoyed learning about my experience and adventures in Rome!

At last, a visit to the Vatican Museum!

I am no longer embarrassed or saddened because I can officially say: I have been to the Vatican Museum. It is an overwhelming but spectacular museum. The Laocoon, a first century AD marble statue, depicts the Trojan priest Laocoon and his son struggling with two serpents. The Laocoon was at the top of our list of statues to see. Not sure where it was located we decided we would keep our eyes out for it as we wondered through the long corridors of the museum. However, as we were walking through the Gallery of Tapestries, Carley stopped us in a panic “we missed the Laocoon!” All in accordance we turned around and began to backtrack. We still were not sure where it was located, so we studied the map to get our bearings. Thinking we had figured out where the Laocoon was located, we continued on our way. According to the map it is in the Greek and Roman courtyard. Down the stairs through a corridor that we had already been in we rounded the corner and halted at the door leading out to the courtyard. The rain was pounding down on the pebbled walkway. We grabbed our umbrellas and proceeded down the walkway in search of the Laocoon. To our dismay, the Laocoon was nowhere to be found. Right in front of us was an English speaking tour guide. We said to her, “Excuse me, will you please tell us where the Laocoon is located?” She replied in a very friendly manner and gave us directions back into the building. We thanked her and went on our way. Ironically the directions took us back to the courtyard we had already visited. Our adventure to find the Laocoon exemplifies the Vatican Museum’s overwhelming amount of art. We took a few pictures and observed the Laocoon, and then we were back to where we left off. The rest of our self-guided tour went smoothly and was totally worth the five week wait.

Santa Maria in Trastevere

Today I visited Santa Maria in Trastevere, one of the oldest churches in Rome dating back to 340s AD. The church was founded at a time when Christians were a minority sect. It is located in the heart of Piazza Santa Maria. The façade of the church was restored by Carlo Fontana who also restored the octagonal fountain in the center of the Piazza. The church can be spotted by its beautiful bell tower and its religious mosaics. The mosaics found above the portico are Mary feeding Jesus and women holding lamps used to symbolize virginity. Virginity is a common theme throughout the art work in Santa Maria in Trastevere because the basilica was devoted to the Virgin Mary.

The interior was much more extravagant than I had expected. Enormous marble columns line the nave of the church, which according to the Eyewitness Travel Rome were taken from the ruins of ancient Roman buildings. At the end of the nave was one of the most beautiful altars I have ever seen, covered in extravagant gold and mosaics. Beyond the altar is an archway that opens up to a half dome decorated in a beautiful 12^th century mosaic of the Coronation of the Virgin. I found on Wikipedia that it was a popular form of Christian art that was often used during the 13^th century. The mosaic portrays Christ placing the crown on Mary’s head accompanied by saints. Needless to say, Santa Maria in Trastevere is definitely worth a visit!

Boys' Town's Church

On our tour of Boys’ Town in Rome we visited their church, which was donated to the organization by the Butchers Union of American over fifty years ago. The church was dedicated to Saint Jude, who is the patron saint of lost causes and can perform miracles for the hopeless, in the hope that he would help the orphans who come to Boys’ Town of Rome in hopes for a “chance at life”.

The aesthetics and structure of the church are much different than what we are used to seeing in Rome. It is a small, unadorned, circular modern building with beautiful tall narrow stain glass windows. The crucifix with missing arms placed in the back of the church is a symbol of Boys’ Town showing the people need to be the arms and hands in helping. We were also told a lot of “ex-citizens” of the orphanage come back to be married or to baptize their children in the church, which shows the strong ties that the boys have to the organization. The stories and generosity of the church make it that much more beautiful and welcoming.

Direction from Rome's Termini to the Great Synagogue of Rome

Starting at Stazione Centrale Roma Termini facing Piazzi dei Cinquecento, make a left onto Via Cavour. After about four or five blocks you will reach Cavour’s metro station. A few more blocks down the road curves slightly to the right, make sure to stay on Via Cavour. Once you run into Via dei Fori Imperiali make a right. Follow this road until you reach the church of Colonna Traiana on the right. At the church make a left onto Via S. Marco. After about a block turn left onto Via D. Teatro di Marcello. Keep an eye out for San Nicola in Carcere on your right, slightly passed this church make a right onto Via della Consolazoine. Then a quick left onto Longotevere dei Cenci which is along the Tiber River, up a little bit on the right sits the Great Synagogue of Rome.

The Great Synagogue of Rome or Tempio Maggiore di Roma is the largest synagogue in Rome. It was built by Vincenzo Costa and Osvaldo Armanni in 1904. The structure, in the heart of the Jewish Ghetto, is a symbol and celebration of the Jewish Liberation. The unique square aluminum dome makes the building stand out from many vantage points throughout the city.

Directions to Santa Maria Concezione from Rome's Termini

Begin at Stazione Centrale Roma Termini on Via Le Einaudi, which is to the left when you are facing Piazza dei Cinquecento. In about 3 blocks or so you will arrive at Piazza della Repubblica. Once here, follow the circle around to the left until you reach V. V. E. Orlando and make a left. After about a block you will pass San Bernardo on your left. Continue on, cross over the main road Via XX Settembre. After crossing the street, on the left is Palazzo Barbereni. Past the palazzo, make a right onto Via Vittorio Veneto. (If you come to Fonta dei Tritone you have gone too far.) Continue down Via Vittorio Veneto for approximately 2 blocks, until you come to Santa Maria Concezione on the left (right before the road begins to curve.)

Santa Maria Concezione, a plain and inconspicuous church, was founded by Antonio Barberini an. In the church lies Barberini, buried close to the altar under a simple flagstone with an inscription “Here lies dust, ashes, nothing.” The realistic quote offers an introduction to the crypt found beneath the church where the bones of departed Capuchin friar’s decorate the walls of the chapels.

Tempio Maggiore di Rome (The Great Synagogue of Rome)

I decided to add a blog on the Great Synagogue of Rome although it is not technically a “church”. It does however, have a connection to the Catholic Church. On April 13^th, 1986 Pope John Paul II visited the Great Synagogue. It was the first synagogue ever visited by a Pope. Pope John Paul II came to visit with the intentions to cultivate the relationship between Judaism and Catholicism.
Ironically, the Great Synagogue is designed more like a church than a synagogue because of its enormous size and the layout with the altar in front of the congregation rather than in the shape of the menorah. In the early 1900’s the Jewish community demolished their five small synagogues, and decided to build a more extravagant synagogue as a symbol and celebration of their liberation. In the center of the Jewish Ghetto overlooking the Tiber River, stands the impressive Babylonian style temple. The unique aluminum square dome distinguishes the temple from the other buildings in Rome, and can be seen at a great distance. Inside, the starry ceiling opens up to a rainbow sky which symbolizes the covenant and invites you inside. The eclectic walls, decorated with Arabic and Hebrew symbols, offer a difference between the interior of synagogues and churches. This beautiful and holy temple is a wonderful tribute to the Jews freedom!

Scala Santa and Sancta Sactorum

What a sight to see, Scala Santa and Sancta Sanctorum or the “holy steps”, which Christ was said to have ascended in Pontius Pilate’s house during his trial. When I tell you that no foot is allowed to touch the stairs, literally, people are crawling their way up twenty-eight stairs on their knees.

I first read about this phenomenon in Charles Dickens work Pictures From Italy, it was not a sight I could visualize in my head. Maybe it is because I, myself, have never seen or done anything of the sort. Dickens describes it as ridiculous, unpleasant and senseless. However, I do not totally agree with him. The reason being, if you look into the purpose, which is penance you may be able to understand why devout Christians put themselves through this pain.

As I stood at the bottom watching the penitents slowly make their way up the flight of marble stairs, I was in awe. The devout and brave penitents, many middle aged looked in pain as they lifted each knee slowly as the crept up to the top, while still stopping to pray.

D.O.M.

After visiting numerous churches in Rome I began noticing at the top of each sarcophagus three large letters engraved, D. O. M. Seeing it repetitively, I knew there had to be significance behind it. Assuming that it had something to do with Latin, a language that I had previously taken; I decided to research the meaning and where it came from.

I discovered it is in fact a Latin phrase, deo optimum maximo, meaning “to the greatest and best God.” The phrase dates back to the era when Roman’s were polytheist. The phrase originally referred to Jove, who was the patron deity of the Roman state.

Centuries later the revered phrase was still used. However, through the adoption of Christianity the Romans became monotheists and the honorable phrase no longer referred to Jove. Rather, to the Christian God meaning, “to God, most good, most great.”

Therefore, the phrase is commonly found on Renaissance-era churches. Thus explaining why it is so common in Italian churches. So, if you get a chance to go to an Italian church keep your eyes out for the abbreviation D.O.M!

Santa Maria sopra Minerva

Santa Maria sopra Minerva is my favorite church that I have visited in Rome. This church is the only Gothic architecture in Rome that I have seen. The building was actually built above ancient ruins, hence the Italian word sopra meaning above the temple of Minerva.

The first time I visited Minerva, I was in awe of the enormous structure and its overwhelming visage. It seemed impossible to capture and take in all the church had to offer. It has the most magnificent ceiling I have ever seen. The high deep royal blue T-shaped vaulted ceilings are intricate with gold stars and paintings of saints; create a warm feeling throughout the church.

The glass windows that are placed in the top of each archway down the nave of the church with the sun shining through them really is a sight to see. Surprisingly, this is the first church in Rome that I have seen with glass windows.

The ceiling and glass windows, as seen in the pictures, alone are reason enough to visit Santa Maria sopra Minerva.

Sant'Ignazio di Loyola a Campo Marzio

Around the corner from our school is Sant'Ignazio di Loyola a Campo Marzio. This was the first of many churches that I visited in Rome. It was built in the early 17th century and dedicated to Saint Ignatius of Loyola who was the founder of the Jesuit order. The aesthetics of this Baroque church are breathtaking.
The aspect of the church that sets it apart from the others is Andrea Pozzo's massive fresco painting that stretches across the whole ceiling. The painting, as you can see in the picture, is majestic and creates a feeling that the church is opening up to a bright sky with 3D figures that look as if they are floating on clouds. There is a dark marble circle in the middle of the floor which is the best spot to observe the illusion that Pozzo created. The church resembles the Jesuit mother church Il Gesu, which I plan to go visit soon!

Churches in Rome

I have been in Rome for four days now, and I am just in awe at the plethora of churches that are found throughout the streets and alleys of Rome. I know that Rome is the eternal city and seat of the Catholic Church, but I could never have anticipated the presence Catholicism has in this city.

Every turn I make as I walk through the streets there is another magnificent church to explore. Being raised catholic and going through twelve years of Catholic schooling could be the reason that I find the churches such a prominent and important theme throughout Rome. Regardless, these beautiful buildings are inviting and have so much to offer to those who visit. As my sightseeing continues I will add comments on the Roman Churches that I visit.